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A Toast to Fusion
Bin 27 Bistro offers a delightful synergy
of fusion cuisine, drink and ambiance | By Mary Scourtes
The “Osso-Bucco Cut” Beef Rib atop Mashed boniato potatoes, stewed vegetables and sweet plantains.
Tans of fusion are making it a habit to go to Bin 27 Bistro. Owner Michael Wuliger says at least six couples returned seven to eight times in the first six weeks. Bin’s name is centered on Wuliger’s age when he acquired the property, its geographic position (it’s 27 degrees north of the Equator), and location, 2702 W. Kennedy Blvd.
The first-time restaurateur added a snazzy decor with a glamorous onyx bar to the former Cafe Con Trey, seating 65 hungry guests indoors and 40 under the stars outdoors. Both settings are rewarding places to savor Chef Jason Cline’s well-honed techniques at lunch, brunch or dinner.
Enjoy too many Bin Breezes (Peach Schnapps and Skyy vodka passion fruit) and you’ll sway to more than the rhythm of its Latin American, Italian and eclectic beat.
When asked about such fresh ideas as coconut, Okinawa mashed potatoes and a shiitake-shallot ragu, Wuliger says, “Food is in my blood.” His family owned a restaurant in Texas and he broadened his horizons in his favorite foodie destinations. As an undergraduate at Emory University, he loved the pool of haute cuisine restaurants and mom and pop, privately owned charmers.
While Wuliger was in school in San Francisco, he sought the fine dining establishments where power brokers cut deals over imported caviar.
A move back to Tampa to be near family took him to Café Dufrain, now his alma mater of the industry. For two years, he served as an intern to learn everything about the food business.
“This is my passion,” Wuliger says about owning his own bistro where he works 16-hour days, yet remains excited to go back for the next.
“I owe it all to my staff, a close crew who believe in my project.”
Life’s stresses melt away with Eclectic Tasmanian Sweet Crab Cakes or chicken wings with a spunky garlic lime mojo honored with smoky chipotle ranch dressing.
Taste the Flash-fried oysters mound mashed potatoes topped with a tamarind-chorizo barbecue sauce with chipotle aioli. Rock shrimp get special-occasion flair in a light cream sauce topped with a fried plantain cake. A Guava-Braised “Osso Bucco Cut” Beef Rib rates raves.
Citrus Sesame Seared Yellow Fin Tuna, flown in from Hawaii, caps a tuxedo cake of sticky and black forbidden rice. Take the path to carnivorous bliss with a juicy grilled pork chop with mustard spaezle. Vegetarians note an excellent roasted corn risotto.
Entrees top off at $28 and appetizers at $12.
Since the name explores wine, there is no surprise oenophiles can enjoy an impressive Errazuriz Don Maximaino with their red meat.
Here’s a toast to the synergy at Bin 27 Bistro. Bravo!
Bin 27 Bistro
2702 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa
813-878-2700
www.bin27bistro.com
Monday – Saturday
Lunch 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.,
Dinner 5 p.m. – 10 p.m.
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