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By Mary D. Scourtes
Is it our beautiful weather or our savory seafood that makes Tampa Bay so inviting? You’ll get no debate from this foodie, just appreciation for an abundance of favorite fish and shellfish on local menus.
We’ve found six sumptuous seafood on the radar - some are old favorites and some are new. Depending on the
restaurant, the choices can be glamorous and upscale,
or down-home and wallet friendly. Each dish brings
something special to the table.
Catch a wave and let’s dine.

Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes
Backfin Blue Cafe | 2913 Beach Blvd. South | Gulfport | (727) 343-2583
Owner and chef Harold Russell knows it has been a good week when his hands ache. That means he has made something like 600 crab cakes. The laid back, 1920s pink cottage is located in the artsy village district of Gulfport. Backfin’s name comes from the jumbo lump of crab found behind the rear swimmer’s fin. Russell is a Florida native, but owes his fame to his mother-in-law. He did his homework to come up with the best rendition of Maryland crab cakes to please her. There’s nothing crabby about these big bites of delicious crab, a whisper of cracker crumbs and egg and basted with garlic-infused olive oil. The Remoulade sauce with Cajun spices kicks the flavors up a notch. “Baking them allows me to use less filler,” said Russell. Also, Russell’s thick puree of corn and crab chowder has pleased locals at this café for 10 years. The high cost of jumbo lump crab makes it imperative to get the best shellfish. “I have the process down,” said Russell. The customers who wait in line outside every weekend seem to agree.

Tarpon Salad
Carlino’s Café & Catering | 2507 S. MacDill Ave. | Tampa | (813) 805-7505
Restaurateur Rita Carlino cooks with confidence. After all, she cooked for Ronald Reagan, George W. Bush and the queen of England during visits to the Bay area. Tampa cognoscenti know her signature, plump, lemony Gulf shrimp, served atop orzo, feta cheese and briny kalamata olives in this love match of Greek ingredients. “I’ve been making it for 25 years,” said the Sicilian, south Tampa catering doyenne. The first appearance dates back to the 1980s, six restaurants ago, when she titled each dish with a Tampa tie-in. The tiny community of Tarpon Springs was a natural namesake for the poached pinks finished with an oregano-scented vinaigrette. Carlino places seven shrimp atop each serving. Imagine how many she peeled to serve 1,200 guests in the late ’70s for a Pan American games party. Her kitchen expertise spans generations. In the kitchen is son Richard Chandler and daughter Kelly Chandler. They share their mother’s motto that everything must be done right: “Everyone who comes through the door has the right to say how they want their food,” said chef Rita. She added, “We have hundreds of bosses.”

Day Boat Scallops
Marchand’s Bar & Grill | Renaissance Vinoy Resort and Golf Club | 501 5th Ave. N.E. | St. Petersburg | (727) 894-1000
John Pivar remembers his mother and grandmother welcoming him in the kitchen at 5 or 6 years old, before he could reach the countertop. Little did they know they were nourishing a future executive chef. At Marchand’s, the executive chef of five restaurants at the Vinoy continues to create a celebration of seafood. Red Snapper with Blood Orange Vinaigrette, shrimp and scallop ravioli, and lobster-shrimp paella grace a Mediterranean menu fused with Florida touches. Praise-worthy Day Boat Scallops treat the perfect, plump specimens to a shallot-truffle marmalade. “People love scallops,” said Pivar. His only challenge was to keep them light and not overpower their delicate flavor. Results are eye-catching when served atop saffron-coriander couscous and vibrant baby bok choy. Best of all, this dish is low fat. The Vinoy’s resources allow the chef to order the freshest seafood and best products and cook in a way that respects all flavors and textures. That said, his restaurant is in high demand for banquets and festive weddings. So where does he make reservations when celebrating a special occasion with his wife? “She wants to come here,” Pivar said with a smile.

Grilled Grouper
Pelagia Trattoria | Renaissance Tampa Hotel | 4200 W. Jim Walter Blvd. (at International Plaza) | Tampa | (813) 313-3235
Look around this colorful and contemporary metal, marble and glass trattoria and you’ll forget you’re in a hotel dining room. Sleek, stylish and artsy features match the creativity in the kitchen. “Still, not everyone knows us,” said restaurant manager Lindsay Holwell. “Everyone is caught up on Bay Street, but our menu can compete with most any restaurant in Tampa,” she said, noting their location next to a bustling mall with plenty of dining options. Grilled Grouper, a dish synonymous with Tampa, basks in attention atop marinated eggplant and celery root puree, all lacquered with a lemon-caper, butter sauce. It is no surprise the scrumptious, black grouper is the top selling dish. Created by the talented, Italian-born executive chef Fabrizio Schenardi, the Florida fish glistens with an Italian accent. “Patrons from the Midwest go wild over Fabrizio’s seafood,” said Holwell. “We’re right in Florida so travelers expect to find the best, and it is,” she adds quickly.

Pompano Relleno
Tio Pepe Restaurante | 2930 Gulf-to-Bay Blvd. | Clearwater | (727) 799-3082
Spanish cooks offer their own contribution to seafood and Tio Pepe’s leads the way with terrific specialties, complimented by an excellent wine list. Jesus Exposito created Pompano Relleno almost 50 years ago at Café Pepe when he worked for Joseph “Pepe” Rodriquez. Today, the two are business partners. Pompano, the “king of the sea” is known for its delightful taste and texture, but can be a bit oily if you don’t know the trick of cooking it, said Exposito. “That's our secret,” he added with a smile. Pompano Relleno, deboned fish with its tail intact, sits atop a shrimp and lobster stuffing, anointed with a sherry sauce. Pompano Papillot Almendrina, also cooked with shellfish in a parchment envelope, follows the top seller in popularity. Guests drive from both counties for the parade of pompano dishes. The chef likes them, too. “I take a spoon and taste the fish and stuffing just about every hour,” said Exposito.

Roasted Macadamia-Crusted Mahi Mahi
Roy’s |4342 W. Boy Scout Blvd. | Tampa | (813) 873-7697
You don’t have to go to Maui for mahi. Chef Roy Yamaguchi opened the first Roy’s in Honolulu in 1988 and one in Tampa in 2001. Yamaguchi combines his passion for Hawaiian cuisine and expertise with Asian and European sauces and spices on a bounty of Gulf and Pacific choices. Roy’s features Island Ahi Poke, and Blackened Island Ahi too, but it’s the glorious aroma and rich flavor of Macadamia-Crusted Mahi Mahi that creates memories here. Sous chef Dante Tripi said the mahi is part of Roy’s menu that has been an international favorite for years. He knows guests who come in only for the “Mac Nut Mahi,” as the kitchen staff call it. With roasted macadamia nuts and butter, one can’t call it low fat, just irresistible. “Fat is flavor,” said Tripi.
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