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The Other Wine Region
Washington State Wines:
America's Darkhorse Region. | By Kevin Pelley
Artz Winery – Yakima Valley, Washington
Photo: Washington Wine Commission
Washington State has quietly become one of America’s finest grape-growing regions. In just five years, the Washington wine industry has nearly doubled in size and is now second only to California in terms of production. The commercial wine industry in Washington got its start in the early 1960s, and now has over 400 wineries and 30,000 vineyard acres. The growth is expected to continue on a swift pace in the coming decades, making it America’s darkhorse wine cultivating region.
One misconception about Washington’s wine regions is the rainy and cold climate. It is assumed that the state’s wine regions are similar to the climate in Seattle, but this is untrue. Though many storms blow in from the Pacific and hammer the Seattle and Greater Puget Sound Area, very few of these storms are able to cross the lofty peaks of the Cascade Range, resulting in arid, desert-like conditions in Central and Eastern Washington. The regions’ climate is ideal for growing Bordeaux varietals such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The age of its vines make Washington an ideal place for viticulture. Washington has the oldest vines in America, many that are 30 or 40 years old. Old vines are known to produce better and more complex wines. The older the vine, the deeper the root system, thus enabling the vine to pick up more trace elements and minerality. Wines with high mineral content are considered more complex and interesting. Washington’s vines are far older than most vines in Napa or Sonoma because of the phylloxera epidemic that has devastated California and resulted in new plantings. Washington has so many old vines because the predominantly sandy soils do not allow louse to inhabit the vineyards and phylloxera is not a problem.
The daily sway in temperatures of Washington creates a perfect place to grow grapes. Though summertime highs often reach 105 degrees, the desert conditions of the Yakima Valley and Walla Walla area bring cool nights and temperatures that dip into the low 50s. This wide diurnal swing allows the grapes to reach full ripeness, yet the cool evenings help retain high acidity resulting in perfectly balanced wines.
Irrigation also plays a major role in the viticulture of Washington State. The desert conditions in Washington’s winegrowing regions receive as little as 10 inches of rain per year, making irrigation a must. Vineyard managers are able to control the exact amount of moisture the vines receive. This is a major advantage over other regions that battle getting the grapes fully ripe before the harvest rains.
Discover a few of the best
Washington State has to offer:
2005 Delille Cellars
‘Chaleur Estate’ Blanc $35.95
This rich and opulent blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon is modeled after the great whites of Bordeaux. Made entirely from free-run juice and barrel fermented in 100 percent new French Oak, this delicious wine is layered with flavors of honey, sweet spice, flowers, vanilla and apricot creme.
2003 L’Ecole No. 41
Syrah $29.95
Dark, extracted and delicious, this wine from the Columbia Valley shows what great promise Washington State has with the Syrah grape. Blackberry, black plum and black raspberry fruit mingle with roasted coffee and exotic spices in this blockbuster wine.
2004 Spring Valley Vineyards
‘Uriah’ $45.95
Spring Valley Vineyards is one of the rising stars in Washington. This wine is entirely estate grown fruit from their Walla Walla vineyards and is a ‘Left Bank’ blend of Bordeaux varietals comprised of mostly Merlot. On the palate the wine is silky, elegant and polished yet exhibits intense black fruit flavors and gripping tannins.
2002 Pepperbridge
Cabernet Sauvignon $43.95
Washington State is capable of producing great Cabernet Sauvignon like this mind-blowing effort from French winemaker Jean-Francois Pellet. Classic Cabernet fruit flavors of cassis, black cherry and black plum collide with anise, cedar and mineral tones resulting in a truly complex wine. Highly recommended.
—Kevin Pelley is a Wine Merchant at
Bern’s Fine Wines & Spirits in Tampa.
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