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A Spanish Revolution
The resurgence of high quality
and delicious Spanish white wines | By Kevin Pelley
There is a revolution happening in Spain. Spain is not leaving the European Union and political leaders are not being overthrown. Instead, this revolution is happening in the vineyards and cellars throughout Spain. From the windswept region of Rias Baixas in the northwest to the high altitude vineyards in Catalunya, producers are making higher quality, fresher and more delicious wines than ever before.
However, this was not always the case with Spain’s white wines. For years, too many of Spain’s white wines were marred by oxidation, maderization and over-oaking. Because of a lack of modern winemaking technology, many of Spain’s white wines were made in the rancio style (literally translated as rancid) and were fully oxidized. It wasn’t until the 1960s when Miguel Torres introduced stainless-steel fermentation tanks, that Spain began to make fresh, clean and modern styled wine. Up to that point, Spaniards were making wines similar in style to that of the Roman era. The change did not happen overnight, either. Decades passed and slowly producers began adopting modern techniques that had been used in France for over fifty years.
With the modernization of winemaking and influence from France, vineyard owners also planted red and white “international” grape varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and others. But, the most exciting result of this influx of technology is the revival of Spain’s indigenous and ancient white grape varietals including Albarino, Verdejo, Viura and Moscatel de Alejandria. Because these regions are so new to fine wine product, the international marketplace has not yet fully discovered these hidden jewels. As a result, these indigenous varieties are available for a relative bargain compared to other quality wines from other countries. In fact, wine buyers will find a plethora of selections below $25.00 that are worth exploring. Here are four examples to look for.
2010 Torres Vina Esmeralda $12.95 | This is one of the most captivating white wines in the world, for its price. This unique blend of Moscato (85 percent) and Gewurztraminer (15 percent) results in a wine with flavors of passion fruit, melon, lime, jasmine, gardenia, and minerality. Though highly aromatic, the wine is not cloying due to bracing acidity and a clean finish. Try this with sushi, at the beach or poolside.
2009 Mar de Frades Albarino $23.95 | Albarino is the king of Spanish white wines. Hailing from the Rias Baixas D.O. in Galicia, Albarino may be the world’s finest seafood and shellfish wine. Citrusy and dry, Albarino also possesses stone fruit notes of apricot and peach pit and an underlining salinity note, undoubtedly from its proximity to the sea.
2009 Shaya Verdejo $15.95 | Spanish Verdejo has a bright future and has not yet realized its full potential as a varietal. Shaya is produced from very old vine Verdejo grapes, with an average age of over 90 years. These old vines produce a complex and compelling wine with flavors of white peach, gooseberry and baking spices.
2010 Muga Rioja $15.95 | Rioja is most famous for its traditionally styled red wines. However, there are high-quality wines also being produced from the Viura varietal in Rioja. Viura is a synonym for the Macabeo, a grape most famously used in the production of Cava (Spain’s sparkling wine). Bodega Muga is one of Spain’s most critically acclaimed producers and this fresh, easy-drinking wine exhibits flavors of lemon zest, green apple, white flowers and bitter almond. Aged for just four months in French oak, this wine has just a touch more texture and richness without feeling too weighty or cloying.
—Kevin Pelley, Certified Sommelier
Wine Merchant: Bern’s Fine Wines & Spirits
Wine Director: SideBern’s Restaurant
www.bernsfinewines.com
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(c) Copyright 2011 Tampa Bay Metro Magazine
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