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Hope Springs Eternal
Five Wine Wishes | By Kevin Pelley
Ask any connoisseur about Italian wine and they will undoubtedly mention one of Italy’s great reds as the mere thought of Italy congers any number of bold red wines including: Barolo, Barbaresco, Amarone, Brunello or one of the great Super Tuscans. Italy’s white wine reputation has been marred by the insipid, watery and over-cropped bulk production of jug-wine quality Pinot Grigio and Soave. But, there is a white wine revolution afoot in Italy. From Umbria to Sicily, producers today are crafting world-class white wines thanks to lower yields in the vineyards, modern techniques in the winery and a desire to compete with France and the United States.
Some producers, like Campania’s Feudi di San Gregorio, are resurrecting lesser-known indigenous varietals like Falanghina, Fiano and Greco to heights not previously seen in this region. Producers in Sicily, like Feudo Arancio, are finding new expressions and styles with tried and true varietals like Grillo. Ancient estates in Tuscany, like Mormoraia, are continuing to make white that compete and outshine wines from around the world.
Here are four Italian whites to try:
2008 Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina $19.95 | The Falanghina grape varietal may be new to some, but is a grape most people enjoy upon first taste. Similar in profile to Viognier or Torrontes, it exhibits a floral, aromatic nose of citrus blossom and gardenia with a rich, mouth-coating texture. The palate is deceptively dry with lots of minerals on the long finish. Falanghina is best served chilled with seafood and shellfish.
2009 Feudo Arancio Grillo $10.95 | Grillo is another one of Italy’s obscure grape varietals that is on the verge of mainstream success. Also known as Riddu, Grillo is one of the three main grape varietals allowed by Italian wine law to be used in Marsala production. Grillo is able to thrive in hot climates and most bottlings come from the Italian island of Sicily. Grillo is a white wine with citrus and tree fruit qualities with a lingering honey or beeswax character. Medium bodied and dry, Grillo is also extremely affordable and very high quality wines can be purchased for less than $20 per bottle.
2008 Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano $15.95 | Vernaccia is Tuscany’s only DOCG (Denominazione di origine controllata) white wine. DOCG is the strictest and highest quality assurance labeling given to Italian wine. In ancient times, Mormoraia was a convent for monks. Mormoraia means the place of murmurs, due to the history of chanting monks at the estate. Today, it is a high quality winery with exceptional views of the famous hilltop town of San Gimignano. The wine is crisp, dry and refreshing with flavors of hawthorn apple, grapefruit, almond skin and a pleasant hint of bitterness. This is a wine that has broad appeal to many palates. Highly recommended!
2007 Antinori Cervaro della Sala $51.95 | The Antinori family has been producing wine since 1385 throughout Italy. This famous wine is grown on the rolling hillsides in Umbria and is considered one of the finest white wines in all of Italy. The Cervaro della Sala is comprised of 85 percent Chardonnay and is blended with 15 percent Grechetto, a high acid indigenous grape of Umbria. The result is not unlike a fine white Burgundy with plenty of richness, minerality and loads of complexity. The wine is fragrant and floral with aromas of acacia flowers. The palate is richly textured with flavors of poached pear, golden apple, lemon curd and roasted hazelnut, yet remains balanced with plenty of acidity and minerality. Though not inexpensive, the wine is still a bargain given its supreme quality level. This might be Italy’s finest white wine.
—Kevin Pelley, Certified Sommelier
Wine Merchant: Bern’s Fine Wines & Spirits
Wine Director: SideBern’s Restaurant
www.bernsfinewines.com
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